Hi All,
It’s been a while since the last update so trying to catchup…..ok, here goes:
We left off the last blog as we arrived in Viani Bay after a gorgeous run from Cousteau. We were very fortunate to take that window as the winds picked up quite a bit thereafter and the window closed for about another 10-12 days.
We loved Viani Bay…..green hills all around, very friendly people, clear, warm waters, spending time hearing Jack Fisher stories (his family established the area back in the late 1800’s, he is 3rd generation)…..we did some fishing – Craig caught a very nice wallou and I caught a very nice Kawakawa tuna which made for an excellent sushi dinner (in fact we soon discovered we were almost out of Nori rolls…..whaaaaat…..how did that happen…..hmmmm, let me count the tuna:)))))
We also got in 3 days of diving on Rainbow Reef with Dolphin Bay Resort….great people and indeed some world class diving as advertised…..White Wall, Purple Corner, Annies’ Bommies, Fish Factory, Cabbage Patch, Nuku…..just lovely…..I finally got the GoPro to work with all the attachments/diving filters…..(Courtney, you would be so proud:)))) At some point I will attempt to edit all the video’s and make a summary of our Fiji diving experience…..hmmmm, me and editing…..it could happen:))))
After 5 nights of jocularity, diving, fishing and talking w/Jack we needed a break and moved on to Kioa. Kioa is part of Fiji but is owned by Tuvaluans. As the atolls of Tuvalu…..about 400 nm NE of here are sinking into the ocean (hmmmm…..global warming??) the country of Tuvalu bought the island of Kioa. Today there are 1100 Tuvaluans from Kioa and about 500 live in the village. We were in search for Eddie. If you recall we befriended Melvin (sold us the freezer in Savusavu) and Elvin (his brother who sold us the transformer) and Vanish (who fixed the transformer)…..they had told us they had a good friend Eddie who was a Council Elder and would take care of us. Indeed Eddie did….we first had a welcome talk in his house, then we went to a village dance that was put on for a local resort…..but at the last minute the resort objected to us being there as they wanted a private show……hmmmm, yes, their nose was stuck up…..how dare trawler trash crash our show…..anyway, Eddie was very apologetic and said wait around and listen to the music and see the dancers through the window…..after the 15 minute show they displayed all their handicrafts which we were allowed to see……and to the village delight, we bought several items……baskets, tapa cloths et al!!!
The next day we went to Albert’s Cove on Rabi. This island is also part of Fiji but is owned by Banavan’s, part of the Gilbert islands in Micronesia. Look up the very sordid history…..basically a product of white Europe/England colonization. Albert’s cove was very remote and picturesque.
As we approached the anchorage we caught a huge sailfish……C&J got to see a beautiful display of tail walking before the fish spit out the lure…..TG…..almost spooled the entire reel and I could have lost my favorite Rapala lure!!!!
We also crossed the date line and now are in the “west” longitudes…..TG they do not change dates or we would have relived yesterday again:)))) This is also the farthest north we will go for the season!!!! Craig and I had a great snorkel and were thinking to dive the reef the next day. That night we celebrated Kathy’s birthday…..champagne, steaks, wine….did they have fun or what!!!!
The following day we decided to move over to Qamea as weather was going to deteriate…..well, the Captain chose the wrong route….instead of staying inside the reef, I went outside hoping to be able to fish…..WRONG…..I thought it would be 2-4′ on the beam but we got 4-6′ on the beam/nose with 25-35 kt winds….ouch….rock and roll time and a little tacking for sure!!!
Qamea is a hurricane hole and is surrounded by hills and the lagoon lined with mangoves…..just another beautiful anhcorage!!! Peter, the panga school boat driver came by and arraged a time and place for our sevusevu. There are 3 villages in the Bay and they have been trying to elect a new Chief for all 3 villages…..the last Chief died recently….then he said they have been debating on a new Chief for 2-3 years…..yep, Fiji time!!!
So, we put on our sulu’s, collared shirts, took off the hats and sun glasses and off to meet the designated Elder. The ceremony took about 5 minutes, we handed over our yoqona (Kava) and they had 3 small grandchildren in attendance to pass down the tradition!! After that we were welcomed to the village and free to go anywhere. The school administrator took us on a tour of the school….130 elementary kids….Kathy had some school supplies which he gladly accepted. Jeanette bought some very nice tapa cloths from the local ladies!!!
Just another boat thing….we are all in the dinghy going to the village to see the chief and give him the Kava and ask permission to anchor in his bay…..the motor dies…..crap….I had just filled with gas this am…..hmmmm……no gas to the engine…..oh crap…..the gas tank is in the bow locker and locked and we forgot the key…..crap, crap, crap…..so, out comes the paddles…..1/4 mile to go…..Peter sees us paddling and jumps into his panga and comes to tow us in……sweet!!!!! We do the sevusevu, tour the village and school…..get towed back…..unlock the gas locker…..the female hose connection had come out of the gas tank connection…..WTH….this is the one w/the safety clip/lever……now how does that happen?????
The next day we went diving with the Qamea resort…..great fish life but the reef has some considerable damage from previous hurricanes and now is being attacked by crown of thorns…..we must have seen 10 on one dive…..not good…..the reefs in Somosomo straights are much healthier!! We did arrange to have lunch after the dive at Qamea Resort….oh, wow….it was soooooo delightful…..the 1st course was kokoda…..a wallou Fijian ceviche….most excellent!!!!
OK…..this is getting a bit long so will close for now…..until the next update!!
Hope all is well!!
John
Mystic Moon
