July 12-14
Hi All,
Day 3 Itinerary of our Top End Tour:
After breakfast we will depart Katherine and make our way towards Kakadu National Park. Covering almost 20,000 square km of exceptional natural beauty and unique biodiversity, Kakadu is one of very few places World Heritage listed for both its cultural and its natural values. Kakadu is home to the Bininj and Mungguy Aboriginal people who have inhabited this area for thousands of years.
Our first stop in Kakadu will be Moline Rockhole, a special permit area in which only a few select operators are permitted to access; guaranteeing minimal crowds. The small waterfall and waterhole below the falls is a great place to cool down and relax. Here your guide will give you a pair of snorkels so you can explore the underwater world, hope to a variety of species such as fish and turtle.
Next we will visit Gunlom Falls which offers various options including swimming or snorkelling in the large plunge pool below the falls. You can also hike up to the top of Gunlom which not only provides scenic views of the surrounding area but is also great swimming and bush walking.
Continue on late-afternoon to Cooinda and our accommodation for the night.
Overnight: Cooinda Lodge (flash camp)
The private waterhole has been discovered. There were some backpackers camping as well as some caravan people having a spot of tea, but it was beautiful nevertheless. Luke and I took a swim,……brrrrrrr……pretty cool!!! We took our snorkels and were able to find a rare pig-nosed turtle…..pretty cool!!!
Then it was off to Gunlom Falls…..amazing!!! “The Waterfall Creek Falls (Aboriginal: Gunlom) is a cascading waterfall on the Waterfall Creek located in the Kakadu National Park in the Northern Territory, Australia. The falls are also known as UDP Falls and are perhaps most famous for making an appearance in the movie Crocodile Dundee. The falls descend from an elevation of 168 metres (551 ft) above sea level and range in height between 60–85 metres (197–279 ft) and are located in the Mary River area in the southern part of Kakadu, less visited by tourists. Depending on the time of the year, the Waterfall Creek Falls range from a roaring waterfall to a gentle trickle falling down the cliffs. This plunge pool at the bottom of the falls is one of the most picturesque places in the Kakadu National Park and a popular swimming hole free of saltwater crocodiles. A steep 45-minute climb leads to the top of the falls, with spectacular views over the southern region of the park. There is also a series of swimming holes at the top of the falls that are popular.”
Side note…..when we came back to Mystic we watched Crocodile Dundee I & II as these movies were filmed through out this area……will watch III in another night or so as we have been busy with Rally functions……anyway, in CD 1 the waterfall where Wally picks them up is Gunlom Falls….whoa!!! It was a bit warmer than earlier but still the Admiral just sat at the edge. Luke and I had a good swim and then decided to hike up to the top….about a 30 minute climb!! Luke and I get up to the top and look to the north and WTH…..dark, ominous looking clouds…..but this is the dry season says Luke, it never rains in July…..have you met John and Kathy, we are the rainmakers…..just ask people in Uluru or the Indian Pacific Railway on the Nullarbor plain:)))
We did make it down safely before it started to rain but it rained hard on our drive to the Cooinda Lodge as well as most of the night!!!! We had a delightful drive through the rain as the colors are brilliant during and after a rain in the Bush country. Luke was so excited I almost had to drive:)))
Since we booked late the only accomodation available was a tent in Cooinda Lodge new Flash Camp. It was actually pretty nice, a nice mattress over a pallet, carpeted floor, a table and chairs……but they don’t normally use these tents in the wet season and ours did leak a little….or maybe in was condensation as it was pretty humid and a bit warm. We were so tired that we both slept hard for about 6 hours and then sort of dozed listening to the rain!! Oh…..the night before over dinner Luke says…..got a great day tomorrow in store for you…..great, pretell…..well, we start at 5:30am to get to a magical spot for sunrise…..uh, Luke, have you looked outside lately…..it’s kind of cloudy and rainy…..no worries mate, even if we don’t see the sun I guarantee you will enjoy the show of the Bush waking up…..hmmm, ok, we’re in……but, what about coffee….no worries mate, I have a press……yep, he is our favorite Luke:)))
Day 4 Itinteray:
“Today we will continue to explore more of Kakadu. First up we’ll travel to Nawurlandja lookout as the sun comes up. An easy climb takes us up the sloping sandstone to provide sweeping views across Anbangbang Billabong, Nourlangie Rock and the Arnhem Land escarpment. Next we will travel to Maguk (Barramundi Gorge). Enjoy a scenic 1km walk along the edge of Barramundi Creek before arriving at the base of Barramundi Falls. Here you have the opportunity to swim or snorkel in the large plunge pool below the falls and discover an array of aquatic life. Later we will join a 2hr sunset cruise on the picturesque Yellow Water Billabong. On this scenic cruise you have the opportunity to view a large variety of birdlife as well as salt water crocodiles in their natural environment. Learn more about the wildlife on the billabong from your knowledgeable guide who will make the cruise both fascinating and informative.
Overnight: Cooinda Lodge (Flash Camp)
So indeed we met Luke at the ute (we rode in a new 4WD Landcruiser; ute is Australian slang for a utility vehicle)and he had hot steaming coffee….even milk and sugar for Kathy!!! But, sadly, there was very little sun for sunrise, just some pink before going behind clouds…..as you will see in the pictures the rain did stop early and we had clouds for most of the morning and by the afternoon cruise it was breaking up!! But, we were about 300′ high on some rock croppings overlooking the bush and the billabong (a branch of a river forming a backwater or stagnant pool, made by water flowing from the main stream during a flood). It was indeed a bit magical listening to all the birdsong as the day began. We next hiked to the billabong and were treated with seeing some wallabies, very shy and hopped away quickly, and then we saw several wild pigs/boars rooting amongst the mud shores of the billabong. We kept our distance as these guys can get pretty rowdy!!
Next up was the Barramundi Gorge…..another beautiful setting, waterfall and plunge pool. This one was actually warm so Luke and I had a good snorkel……saw many Barramundi fish, an Asian sea bass and an Australian favorite food fish!!
Then another highlight…..the sunset cruise on the Yellow Water billabong……OMG……saltie central……maybe 15-20….. as well as many, many birds. Luke was along to help spot and describe all the varieties we were seeing!!! It was a highlight for sure!
Day 5 Itinerary:
This morning we will explore Arnhem Land. After breakfast we will travel to the northern region of Kakadu to Cahill’s Crossing on the East Alligator River; the border between Kakadu and Arnhem Land. Arnhem Land comprises of vast amounts of Aboriginal owned land (approximately 100,000 square km) where many local people still practice their traditional ways. Access is strictly regulated through a permit system.
After crossing the river into Arnhem Land a 15 km scenic drive to Gunbalanya (also known as Oenpelli) Aboriginal community provides some of the best driving views in the Top End with floodplains covered in bird life and water lilies running up alongside the Arnhem Land escarpment.
Once reaching Gunbalanya our first stop is the Injalak Arts and Crafts Centre where you have the opportunity to meet and see traditional local artists in action. This art centre has a reputation for producing fine quality Aboriginal works with many displayed in galleries around Australia and overseas.
Next, we will be joined by a local Aboriginal guide for a hike around the Injalak Hill rock art sites. A moderate climb takes us up into one of the most spectacular Aboriginal rock art sites in Australia. It’s here where we spend several hours exploring the many rock shelters which are covered in Aboriginal x-ray art dating back over 20,000 years. Relax under the shelters as your guide shares and interprets the stories of their ancestors and helps you to understand the meaning behind this ancient tradition.
Enjoy lunch here in Gunbalanya before departing and travelling back into Kakadu. Once in Kakadu we will visit Ubirr Rock, one of Kakadu’s best known rock-art sites and made famous by the movie Crocodile Dundee. Here we will spend time viewing the spectacular rock-art ‘galleries’, your guide will interpret the stories and meaning behind this ancient tradition. A walk to the top of Ubirr offers great views across the Nadab floodplain into the stone country of Arnhem Land.
Next we will make our way back to Darwin via the Arnhem Highway. Our last stop in Kakadu will be at the Mamukala Wetlands which at this time of the year is a haven for thousands of Magpie Geese as well as many other species of native birds and reptiles.
Arrive back to Darwin at approximately 7pm.
Wow…what a day…..maybe the best yet, although each day was special!! We had a civilized breakfast at 7am and were off by 7:30am. A beautiful sunny day. We made it out of Kakadu and into Arnhem land.:
“Arnhem Land is a vast wilderness area in the northeast corner of Australia’s Northern Territory, defined by rocky escarpments, gorges, rivers and waterfalls. It’s home to the traditional landowners, the Yolngu people, and permits are required to visit. Aboriginal bark paintings and didgeridoos are displayed at the Injalak Arts and Craft Centre in Gunbalanya, while nearby Injalak Hill is an ancient rock art site.
Arnhem Land has been occupied by indigenous people for tens of thousands of years and is the location of the oldest-known stone axe, which scholars believe to be 35,500 years old. The Gove Peninsula was heavily involved in the defence of Australia during World War II. At least since the 18th century (and probably earlier) Muslim traders from Makassar (now Indonesia) visited Arnhem Land each year to trade, harvest and process sea cucumbers or “trepang”. This sea slug is highly prized in Chinese cuisine, for folk medicine and as an aphrodisiac. This Macassan contact with Australia is the first recorded example of interaction between the inhabitants of the Australian continent and their Asian neighbours. This contact had a major effect on local indigenous Australians. The Makassans exchanged goods such as cloth, tobacco, knives, rice and alcohol for the right to trepang coastal waters and employ local labour. Makassar pidgin became a lingua franca along the north coast among several indigenous Australian groups who were brought into greater contact with each other by the seafaring Makassan culture.
This was by far our best Aboriginal experience in Australia. Our guide’s name was Ezariah and he lived in the Gunbalanya outstation or mission. This Outstation movement started in the early 1980s and many Aboriginal groups were moved to these very small settlements away from their homelands……much like the Native Americans in USA. The Injalak Hill rock art was outstanding……and very spiritual. Ezariah was a quiet, studious and very thoughtful man and he took his time explaining the art and what it meant to him and his people. He told the meaning through many stories that his Father taught him…..it was very moving. He took us a a most sacred burial cave…..no pictures allowed……again a very solemn moment! As the story goes……Father can you draw me something, well, ok……and the Fathers would paint pictures of the animals they hunted for food as a means of teaching the children!!
After several hours viewing dozens of rock paintings, some preserved remarkably well to be 10-20,000 years old, we went to the Injalak Art Center. It turns out Ezariah is a promising artist and we bought two of his paintings!! They will be a great remembrance of our time in Arnhem Land, and of our trip….
We ended the day by going to the Ubirr rock……these were ONLY 5,000 years old…..whoa!!! Still very well preserved…..really incredible when you think about it!!!
And that was our tour of the Top End…….5 days, 4 nights, from dawn to well past dusk each night……hiked about 3-4 miles/day……17 miles in total……it was everything we wanted and a very, very fitting end to our Australia road trips!!!!
So, now after a few days of R&R we will begin to focus in earnest on Indonesia!! Even though we are somewhat sad to leave Australia, we feel like we have done Oz justice and have loved every minute of our time here!! What a special country! We hope Indonesia will be just as special…..
Hope all is well!!
John
Mystic Moon
REST MYSTIC REST!!
PS: Pictures in the Gallery: http://mysticmoonvoyages.com/photo-gallery/nggallery/main-album/Top-End-Northern-Territory
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