Captain’s Log: Martinborough to Tongariro, Day 50-51

March 24-25

Hi All,

Tongariro: We came, we saw, we kicked butt…..the ring has been destroyed….We did Frodo and Sam of LOTR fame proud!!!!

The Tongariro Crossing (19.4 km, ~12 miles, starts at 3500′ elevation, climbs to 5700′ in the first third of hike, then drops to 2000′ elevation at the end) has been described as one of the best if not best day hikes in New Zealand. Hmmmm……I’m not sure for Kathy and me that is the case. Oh, we are soooooo glad we did it, but it just didn’t seem to have that 5-star quality as did many of our other hikes – Heaphy, Abel Tasman, Queen Charlotte, Mt Cook (in fact Kathy is leaning towards Mt Cook and Heaphy as her favorites!!). We will give it a 4.5 star rating…..close!!

The weather conditions may have had something to do with it. All 3 forecasts we looked at plus TV weather called for bright sunshine, no wind and low 70’s….perfect, except it might be too hot. Reality was soooooo different….partly cloudy/sunny, windy and cold. The sun did come out and burnt away the clouds just as we got to the summit which was very nice and we got to see the mountains, but it was still cloudy in the valleys so none of the spectacular surrounding views. And, the wind picked up and we scrambled to put on most of the clothes we brought.

Was it difficult….you bet, but not a killer as some described but not moderate like others described!! It took us a little over 7 hours….not bad….and we could tell that we have “walked” ourselves into better aerobic shape on this roadtrip with all the hikes we have done….while the steep climbs had us breathing hard, I don’t think I redlined as in some of the earlier hikes:))))

Here is a description of the hike:

“Often described as New Zealand’s greatest day walk, the Tongariro Alpine Crossing is a challenging journey across a remarkable volcanic landscape. Beginning at Mangatepopo Valley near Wakapapa, the track climbs alongside a stream and around the edges of old lava flows. The age of different lava flows is indicated by the extent to which plants have re-established themselves on the harsh black lava rocks. Near the head of the valley, the Soda Springs are an oasis for the moisture loving yellow buttercups and white foxgloves. The steep climb from the valley to Mangatepopo Saddle between Mount Ngauruhoe and Mount Tongariro is rewarded by panoramic views, which on a clear day reach as far as Mount Taranaki.

The Tongariro Alpine Crossing track continues across South Crater to a ridge leading up Red Crater. The smell of sulphur is a reminder that this crater is still active. Red Crater marks the highest point on the Tongariro Crossing. The track then descends to three water-filled explosion craters called the Emerald Lakes. Their brilliant greenish colour is caused by minerals that have leached from the surrounding thermal area. The crossing continues over Central Crater to Blue Lake – an old volcanic vent. After rounding the flanks of North Crater, the descent continues through tussock slopes to the forest bushline. The cool, green forest is refreshing on the long descent to the end of the journey. The Tongariro Alpine Crossing takes seven to eight hours in the direction described.”

I have often remarked how well the Department of Conservation (DOC) maintains their parks and trails in NZ. This hike was no different for 2/3’s of the hike but the upper 1/3 was not maintained or groomed at all…..maybe the steep conditions just do not allow it???? After the “devil’s staircase”….on your way up to Mangatepopo Saddle (you climb like 1000′ in 1/3 of a mile….very steep, a Scandinavian we met along the trail counted 284 stairs:))))….anyway, the trail becomes one of small boulders, loose gravel and since it had rained the days before, somewhat slippery/muddy…..we took our time with only a few stumbles!!!

Once at the top we had planned on having lunch but the winds picked up and it was downright cold….especially since we were very sweaty from the ascent….so we ate some fruit and a Snickers bar and set off. This was the best part of the hike, the sun had partially cleared so we had great views of Mt Ngauruhoe (Mt Doom in LOTR), South and Red craters, the Emerald Lakes. But, right…. before you descend to the lakes you drop about 500′ in very loose volcanic rabble, maybe 6-8” deep, every step you take you slide…seriously…..I started off doing the “old man” step/slide…very tense, bent over, side stepping…..then these 20 somethings go flying by….heading straight down….knees bent, leaning way back, they 1st planted one heel hard, then slipped a bit, the shoe bit/caught and then did the other foot…..hmmm, maybe like skiing…just head straight down…ok, let’s give that a go because at my pace it was going to take over an hour or so….ok, knees bent, here I go…..bam, right on my arse…oweeeee….volcanic rabble is hard….ok, think John, use some of your 60 year old wisdom….so I did a combo of the old man side step with the 20 something heel plant and voila, I’m flying down the slope….well, in my head I am, until more 20 somethings come flying by!!!

After doing almost 80% of the hike we come to a spot overlooking some steam vents and we are finally in some protection of the winds so we decide to stop for lunch….great views of a partially cloudy valley and lake as well as steam vents on the side of the mountain. After lunch, we go maybe 100 yards and there is a sign that says you are in an active volcano zone, no stopping….turns out we were sitting near the spot that blew in 2012 with no warning….yep, living on the edge…or was that a Darwin moment???

Anyway it was a great day and fitting end to our NZ roadtrip. After very long showers and several cocktails we treated ourselves to a very nice steak dinner at “The Station”, an old railroad station converted to a nice restaurant….although a long freight train came flying by during dinner rattling everything…as in save the wine glasses/bottles!!!!

Stats:
Traveled: 200 miles to Tongariro, 3200 miles total
Hotel: Tongariro: Parkview apartments – just ok, but a great view of the mountains/clouds and it was 2story, kinda hurt after the hike to walk up/down the stairs but the cocktails were upstairs so we managed:))))!!
Wrong Turns: Zero, total 9
Turned into wrong lane: steady at 3!!!
One-Way Bridges: 10, now 250 total!!!
Food: no CO’s but an excellent steak dinner after the hike!!!

Hope all is well!!

John

PS: Pics on the website!
PSS: Cargo has left LA…..yea!!!!! ETA Auckland is April 6th….lost a day or so!!