Captain’s Log: Heaphy Track, Day 14-19

Hi All,

Wow-o-wow…..the Heaphy Tramp (Kiwi’s say tramp vs backpack) was an experience that is hard for me to describe with words….awesome, top ten experience, amazing, loved it, exhilarating…yes, it was hard…..but maybe not as hard as we feared!!!! What a sense of accomplishment when we finished and we both were quite elated and also a bit sad it was over.

The Heaphy Track is one of the Great Walks in New Zealand (there are 9). It is 80-82 km (48-50 miles, there is some controversy on the actual length, we will go with 50 miles:)))) and is located in the Kahurangi National Park in the northwest part of the South Island. We picked it for the variety of landscapes we would walk through and we were not disappointed!! You must get permits to do these walks as well as stay in designated “huts” or campsites nearby. We stayed in “huts” which have bunk style dormitory sleeping arrangements with large kitchens with several work stations all with propane stoves….sweet as. Two of the huts were built in the last few years while the other 2 were much older.

Now let me say that this was……we have “arrived”, we are so blessed, because we can, SHERPA style backpacking…..and we are soooooo spoiled now!!!! We used Southern Wilderness and they were just awesome. Angus, the owner and our guide, carried all the food and WINE!!!!!He was a super guy, always positive, very friendly and quite knowledgeable about the track, wildlife and landscape. We carried our sleeping bags and personal stuff…..probably our packs weighed 15-20 pounds….oh what a delight…..Angus’ pack OTOH weighed like the packs we used to carry for our 3 day hikes in Yosemite…oweeeee!!!!

The unique niche for SW is the gourmet food….yep, we are the only couple to backpack 50 miles and gain weight….doesn’t seem fair to do all that work and not lose some of the belly…..but what a way to go. Here is the webpage for Southern Wilderness if you want more of a description: http://www.southernwilderness.com/heaphy-track

We did the 5-day Heaphy Track with the extension!! We had two hard days, 2 moderate days, and one easy day.

Day 1 – Brown Hut to Perry Saddle Hut (10.5 miles, 6+ Hours)

“Early pick up at accommodation in Nelson and travel by minivan to Brown Hut (beginning of the track) for a final briefing and the start of your walk. The track gradually climbs through podocarp and beech forest to Flanagan’s Corner (the highest point on the track at 915m). En route, grand views of Aorere Valley open up, with even Mt Taranaki visible on a clear day. From Flanagan’s Corner, it’s a gentle stroll on to Perry Saddle Hut. This is 880 metres above sea level and has bunk-style accommodation for 26.”

The first day was the hardest, 10 miles doing a steady 3000′ climb…..took us a little over 6 hours and this was the only cloudy, cool day we had….TG as if it would have been sunny/hot it would have made it much harder!! We stayed in the Perry Hut (brand new and it was full) and we were one of the last to arrive so we both had top bunks…..the rest of the nights we arrived somewhat earlier and got bottom bunks…much better for the old guy in the middle of the night:)))

We were introduced here to the many CO’s (culinary orgasms:))) we would experience from Angus’ cooking. We started with a buffalo milk feta cheese with a plum spread on crackers…..some of the best/mild cheese we have ever had….then we had Spanish paella with chorizo, muscles and shrimp with lot’s of fresh veges…..yummers on a cold foggy night!! And of course, a bottle of Yealand Estate Sauvignon Blanc followed with some Ron Zacapa rum we brought (well, Kathy and Angus had the rum, I had some scotch:))))

Day 2 – Perry Saddle Hut to Saxon Hut (8.5 miles, 5+ hours)

“This is an easier day (we say moderate day) with only 4 hours walking (it took us 5+, yes we are slow but we took in a lot of the scenery). The track passes through kamihi and beech forest before reaching the wide expanse of tussock covered land known as the Gouland Downs. The track meanders down to Cave Brook, passing the famous ‘boot pole’, where trampers have tied their old boots (more on this later but Kathy almost gave up her shoes here). Past ‘the enchanted forest’, a limestone outcrop with caves and waterfalls, we continue over the final part of the Downs and climb gently to Saxon Hut (16 bunks).”

Lunch along the way was fresh bread and a smorgasbord of fresh veges (tomatoes, various colored capsicums, alfalfa sprouts, cucumbers, dried tomatoes) smoked cheddar cheese, and venison salami…all served with different spreads….homemade chutney, feta spinach, tomato pesto….yummers. Dinner that night was fresh salmon….omg….fresh pan sautèed salmon with hollandaise sauce over couscous and a fresh salad….then later we had a dark chocolate fondue with dried apricots, ginger and apple…..CO #2!!!!

The only tough part after the 2nd day was Kathy’s feet….after the first 2 days of straight up and then some down, she had 3 layers of blisters on both heels, a couple of which were broken. Owweee!! Fortunately, Angus, had some magic stuff called “second skin” which she used AND she switched to her hiking sandals for the remaining 3 days. It all worked out okay, as the first 2 days were the rocky ones where she really needed the boots and the last 3 were on better terrain where Tevas and socks walked just fine.

Day 3 – Saxon Hut to Lewis Hut (15 miles, 7 hours)

“The track crosses the Saxon River flats, then onto the broad ridge between the Gouland and Mackay Downs, passing old poles marking the boundary between Nelson and the West Coast provinces. The vegetation varies from tussock to shrub fringed beech forest with glimpses of the ocean and West Coast in the distance. We stop for a relaxed lunch at Mackay Hut. Beautiful views down to the Heaphy River mouth reward us here, before we set off again for the afternoon. The track descends gradually to the Heaphy River through beech and sub-tropical podocarp forest to the Lewis Hut (20 bunks), our destination for the evening”.

We both felt very good that day….energy and legs felt fine….we were first on the track and were very, very fortunate to see a pair of blue ducks….only 1000 pair left in NZ….we crossed “blue duck creek” and there they were just a honking at us….wow, what a treat!!!! We also saw various variety of large snails which are pretty abundant in this area!! We also saw a Kaka parrot….again pretty rare!!! That night we were treated to a couple of Kiwi’s outside our window just shreaking away….we did not get a sighting as were were too tired to get up!!! The Kiwi bird is a flightless bird native to NZ and a national symbol, thus the people are called “kiwis”.

We were both pretty exhausted after this day….15 miles is a very long hike, even though the last 9 miles is downhill….our “feet” were screaming!!! Lunch at the Mackay Hut which had these incredible views was more fresh veges/spouts stuffed in a hot pita roll with some fried falafel….again all combined with various spreads and cheeses. Dinner that night was Thai patai….again with all kinds of fresh veges, broccoli, fried tofu and seasoned with the right amount of spices….served with a Yealand Chardonnay….yummers….CO #3!!!!

Day 4 – Lewis Hut to Heaphy Hut (5 miles, 2.5 hours)

“Today is another shorter walk; from Lewis Hut the track meanders along the banks of the Heaphy River, passing giant rata and kahikatea trees. The 28 bunk Heaphy Hut, our accommodation for the evening, is situated close to the rivermouth and has prime coastal frontage! This is a truly magical spot”.

Wow, another gorgeous hike along the river and forest. We got in around noon, had another fresh vege, cheese, with fried chicken strips with tortilla wraps for lunch and then we took a long walk along the beach….a long brown sand beach with some shells and the surf was pounding!! Back to the hut and for the first time, John-boy got in a short nap….much needed as I was starting to feel the sore muscles….Advil can only do so much!!!! But then, at slack tide, Angus took me fishing…..we fished the mouth of the Heaphy river where the Kahawai fish come in to feast. Well, the pro Angus catches 2 right off the bat…..another guy takes about 10 casts and then bam, then the Yank gives it a go and nothing….arghhhh….missed the school…..bummer……whaaaaaa((((

Dinner that night started with the fresh Kahawai then followed with Moroccan lamb tagine over Libyan couscous….omg….Angus cooked this most of the afternoon and it was too die for…..served with a Yealand Merlot….CO#4!!!!

Day 5 – Heaphy Hut to Kohaihai (9.5 miles, 5.25 hours)

“We walk from the Heaphy Hut along a coastline studded with nikau groves to the track’s end at the Kohaihai River. Some beach walking is possible at low tide. This is a spectacular coastal walk – rated as one of NZ’s best day walks – to complete your Heaphy adventure.”

Just another highlight day….the beach and coastal scenes were breathtaking….the track ends with about a 25 minute climb….just Heaphy’s way of saying goodbye which only made the ice cold beer at the end of the trail taste all that much better!!!!

Sarah, one of the other guides and manager of SW, met us along the way and took us all to a nice lunch and then to the Nelson Lake Alpine Lodge for the night. We both took long hot showers and then had a lovely dinner with Angus and Sarah (alas, not a CO experience). In the morning Sarah gave both of us an outstanding massage…..Kathy got extra time for her knotted shoulders and back….I got extra time for my neck and sinus’!!!! Oh what a delight for the sore muscles.

The ONLY part we did not care for was the sandflies….these are like noseeums but on steroids….we first encountered them on Day 3 and they progressively got worse. The bites make big itchy welts on both of us. We experienced this very annoying/itching fiasco last year in the Fiordlands. Angus had a local spray which was about 90% effective but if you had any exposed skin, yep, they found you. We both came back with itchy feet, arms and legs….arghhhhhh!!!!

So, now it is Sunday, an official day of rest for us…..doing the blog, laundry, pharmacy, new shoes for Kathy and getting repacked for the upcoming week. Tomorrow we are off to the west coast and Barrytown for the knife making, then the Franz Joseph Glacier, then the Haast area, before heading inland to Wanaka and the Rob Roy glacier!!

Unfortunately I’m still experiencing some cold/sinus/allergy kind of issue…it is much better but it’s been over 3 weeks now with a stuffy, dry nose, trickle down the throat and a hack….arghhhhhh…..not sure what to do as I’ve taken most of the otc drugs here….yep, man up time!!!!

Hope all is well!!

John

PS: We added a lot of pictures in the “Gallery” under Heaphy Track

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