Captain’s Log: Crossing the Scotia Sea then Running Away from Category 1 Storm

March 24-27

Hi All,

Update: March 27, Day 14: Bummer, Bummer, Bummer….after only 1 day at South Georgia Islands we had to leave and run to the northwest away from a huge, Category 1 storm that has formed over the southern tip of South America and is on a direct course for South Georgia to arrive Tuesday – Wednesday…yikkers….the colors on Windyty are white….85+ kt winds, 45′ seas….no way the Captain says so we are going to run north for as long as it takes….arghhhhhh!!!!

One thing Kathy and I have learned in our 19 years of cruising is to be happy with whatever Mr Weather gives you….sure, we all love the “perfect” weather but we also have learned to find the beauty in the “nasty” stuff. But yet, this one is a major disappointment as I doubt we will ever have the chance to come back to South Georgia and experience the dramatic mountains and plethora of critters so we’ve allowed ourselves a few moments to be disappointed. Then today we woke up to bright sunshine, 12-16′ seas on the port bow, 20-30kt winds, moderate motion on the ship….but lots of petrels and albatross riding the winds….hopefully will get some good pictures.

I’m still rather bummed about leaving Antarctica. You dream about going someplace, have read the various Heroic expeditions like Shackleton and Scott, and while you’re on Antarctica you keep pinching yourself that you really are there, and then in a blink your gone. It was a magical time and one I will cherish forever!!1 I’d say half of the people on board have been to Antarctica more than once. I don’t know if we will return as there is still so much to see and so little time, but just maybe…..of course, Kathy says sure, we can return, right after another African safari:)))

Website: Wow….I just looked and we have had over 1,010,000 website views in our 17 years doing the website/blog…whoa!!!

March 24-26 Days 11-13: Crossing the Scotia Sea. Did you know the Scotia Sea is named for the Scottish explorers who named it….”The sea was named about 1932 after the Scotia, the expedition ship used in these waters by the Scottish National Antarctic Expedition (1902–04) under William S. Bruce.”

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scotia_Sea

It really is a continuation of the Drake Passage as it enters the Atlantic Ocean. It’s another body of water that is feared by most mariners. Well, we got pretty lucky again. This time the Captain chose his timing and speed wisely to keep us in-between two major storms. Consequently we initially had 12′ seas and 35kt winds but quickly and for 2+ days it calmed to 15-20G25kt winds and 7-10′ swells w/long period….sometimes on the aft quarter and sometimes on the beam….AND the ride was moderately smooth…just a gentle roll!!!!

The bummer was it was cloudy/foggy after the first clear night. That night a professional photographer got up at 2:15am and took pictures of the Aurora Australis (Southern Lights)….he said he needed an ~5 minute exposure on a rolling boat so the picture was a bit grainy but the colors were spectacular. He said you could not see the Light w/the naked eye….wow, that is some skilled photographer. But the days are passed watching the seas in fog or gray skies. For whatever reason we have not seen much birdlife or whales….it could be we just don’t see them w/the gray skies and big seas!!

A bit about Howard Whelan our Expedition Leader: Born in Australia, raised in the Rocky Mountains, at age 19 walked the Pacific Crest Trail from Canada to Mexico (2400 miles), and joined Greg Mortimer (owner of Aurora Expedition) on the first Australian ascent of Mount Everest as the photographer. He has over 30 years exploring Antarctica and was a major voice in the design of the Sylvia Earle as well as a major contributor to the making of the movie “Happy Feet”. We’ve had the pleasure to speak some privately with him and have him as our zodiac guide several times. A very, very impressive person!

March 24 & 25, Days 11 & 12: All at sea….in moderate conditions, 15-20G25kt winds, 7-9′ seas, medium period, beamy, but a very gentle roll…no issues walking around. We had several lectures…Jonathan gave an excellent talk on the life of Ernest Shackleton and emphasized the voyage of the Endurance. Dennis a professional photographer for Aurora gave a fascinating talk on making great photos….hmmm, pretty much over my head but occasionally I might get one as good as his. Then Stephi gave an inspired talk on icebergs!!

Wine Tasting: Yep, u betcha, why not. The Ship has a very impressive wine cellar….but we have not sampled yet as they have been pouring some excellent Argentina and Chilean wines at dinner….it’s also included and Chester the wine server always insures our glasses are full:))) But, Paz, the Wine Sommelier setup a wine tasting event for 12 people and we decided to go. It started at 9pm but we were big boys and girls and stayed up for it. We tasted a French Fume Blanc, Hess USA Chardonnay, Italian Barbaresco, and Chilean Cabernet Sauvignon. All were excellent and Paz passed on many wine tasting tips as well as descriptions of the wine and wine appellation.

Bio Security: It turns out South Georgia is undertaking the world’s largest nonnatural pest and plant eradication program. Many rats and reindeer were brought in by the whalers and were destroying the natural bird habitats as well as many foreign plants were taking over the natural plant life that is a food and nest source for all the birds et al. We also had to ensure all our landing clothing is clean of any foreign material and watched a fascination film on the subject narrated by David Attenborough. When the ship first arrives it will be inspected by a Government official.

March 26, Day 13: We woke up to a brilliant blue sky and marvelous views of South Georgia. We arrived at Gold Harbor around 8:00am and were on shore by 9:00am. Since we knew we only had 1 day on South Georgia instead of 4 days, we were all determined to make the most of every minute. We saw a King penguin colony of 25,000 pairs or 50,000 penguins….now that is a lot of guano:)))) The ode de penguin was strong but fortunately we could stand upwind to observe these marvelous and oh so curious birds!!! Oh and the sound….1000’s of chicks still in their brown, fluffy, down coat were all gathered in the center for protection or still staying warm under Mom’s warm pouch. Many came right up to you, stretched their necks, raised their head and said something in a shrill but melodic tone….we think they said choose me, choose me I’m the prettiest or most handsome:))) We have seen lots of penguins in our travels, especially around Cape Town, New Zealand and Australia but this was by far the most impressive and largest gathering we have ever witnessed. And amongst all these Kings were a few Gentoos as well….not sure why but they were there??

And there were plenty of frisky fur seals playing all around as well as ~20 Elephant Seals….now these guys were big….and I mean big….the largest seal we have ever seen and the Guides told us they were rather young….maybe a group of young adult males….they were sleeping most of the time after hunting last night and bellies full of I suppose penguin, but occasionally one would say move over to its neighbor and if that one did not move fast enough a rather vigorous head butting, teeth bared, body slamming occurred.

After lunch we were supposed to go to St Andrews Bay and see a 100,000+ King penguin colony but the swell was too much…arghhhhhh!! Instead we went to a very calm bay named Godthul. This was a site of a whale processing ship in the mid-1900’s and there were many whale bones, barrels, and containers till laying around. This was not as impressive site as Gold Harbor but still beautiful in its on way….some King and Gentoo penguins, a few elephant seals but the most impressive were the fur seal group…maybe 200+ pups…oh, so curious, all playfully charging us then stopping, posing and then running off with their mates….such youthful joy, bravado and curiosity!! And, several in the tuft grass, maybe too young to come out from the nest, would make this very mournful cry for Mom who was either sleeping or out hunting, but certainly not feeding the pup as the pups were demanding:))) There also was a very, very steep hike through the tall and very lumpy tuft grass to a lake….maybe 1-2′ mounds making walking amongst them a huge challenge as the grass covered everything including all the holes or gaps in between. Many of the critters were nesting in amongst the grass mounds so you had to be careful. I didn’t make it all the way up after stumbling and falling into some big holes in between the clumps of grass…but nevertheless the views and experience were all incredible.

By the time we were all done, it was getting dark and we were called back to the ship…the Captain was anxious to run away from the storm so sadly we all boarded:(((( That night Jonathan lead us in a wee dram toast to Ernest Shackleton. One of our landings was to be in Grytviten, where Shackleton is buried, and the tradition is to surround the grave site and give a “toast to the Boss”…but we did the next best thing and toasted from the ship!!!

The Plan: Really not sure….get as far away from this huge storm as possible, then make for the Falklands, Instead of 1 day there we will hopefully get 3+ days and still see lots of critters!!

Hope all is well!!

John

PS: I just noted the date….now 6-months after rotator cuff surgery….per the doc, the tendon is now fully repaired so no restrictions….I’d say 60% on strength and 90% motion so I still have a ways to go, but very, very minimum pain…so a successful surgery…yippee!!!!