Captain’s Log: Blenheim to Takaka Day 10-12

Hi All,

We have had 3 marvelous days in what is called the Golden Bay in the northwest side of South Island. We got here somewhat late afternoon the first day and spent some time looking around Takaka (say tack-a-ka) where we are staying in a charming cottage called “The Rock”. They have tried to develop a little island oasis somewhat after Fiji and are a delightful couple with a very nice restaurant. We also had to figure out our Abel Tasman hike the next day and then up to Farewell Spit the day after.

Abel Tasman was a Dutch explorer credited with discovering New Zealand in 1642. We were able to get in a nice 7-8 mile hike in the Abel Tasman National Park….from Totaranui along the coast to just above Mutton Cove and back. We walked along 3 beaches as well as through some very nice and cool forests. The views along the coast were spectacular.

I say it was a nice hike albeit we made one wrong turn that had Kathy mumbling not so sweet things. When we got to Totaranui the lady at the visitor hut said you came at a good time…it is low tide so go down and cross the estuary and then pick up the trail on the other side….great…let’s go see some tide pools. Well, it was a very nice beach and we made across ok but then came to a trail head ….right or left with no signs….we chose unwisely to go right as we thought the puny map we had said that way…..wrong…..it was all up hill and when we got to the top somewhat down hill…..added a good 45 minutes to our hike and we “lost a lot of gas”.

The next day we went up to Farewell Spit…..the very tip of northwest New Zealand. It was appropriately named by Captain Cook as he bade “farewell” to New Zealand and this 24 mile long sand spit is what was the last land he saw!! When we got to the carpark we were amazed as it was almost full and there were lots of people….uh oh, this is going to be really crowded. Well, it turned out to be a whale rescue…..about 200 Pilot whales had gotten beached about 24 hours ago and there were a swarm of people trying to save them. They had gotten many off the beach the night before but then 80 came back and got beached again. Scientists do not know why these whales do this….but they do this a lot….very sad, maybe sick, something wrong with their sonar….who knows, Pat, our proprietor at the cottage thinks it has to do with earthquakes and it messes up the soundings in the bay and the whales get confused. We went out in the mud/sand and saw some already dead but many still alive. There is a volunteer group called “Jonah Project” and they quickly organized a whale rescue. This was not their first “rodeo” as in speaking with many of the volunteers they get called out frequently and Pilot whales are their #1 rescue whale. They were hoping to be able to swim them off the beach at high tide later that afternoon.

After that rather shocking and sad event we went over to Wharaki Beach…..wow, another drop dead gorgeous view. We saw seals and seal pumps playing in some shallow pools and then had a great walk along the beach amongst the rather large sand dunes!!

So now it is the day before we start our 80 km, 48 mile Heaphy Great Walk. We’ve had some great hikes to warm up and hopefully we are ready. Kathy does have a bruised big toe and some blisters to contend with but hopefully we have the right medical stuff to get her through. The first day (tomorrow) is the hardest….10 miles and climb 3000 feet. We are both a bit nervous on this…..we both did great with our packs on flat and downhill but struggled on very steep grades….our legs were ok, we just were breathing very hard….just no aerobics on Mytsic…ugh!!!

Stats:
Traveled: 250 miles; 850 miles total
Wrong Turns: holding at 4:)))
One-Way Bridges: OMG – we must have done 30+ yesterday but thankfully no close calls, the day before we did about 12 and had two close calls – yep, people with no right-a-way just coming through like it was their bridge…and then going wide eye when they see us!!!!
Food: Had some very nice meals at “The Eatery” while staying at “The Rock”
– we had a lamb rack, pork loin, wrasse fish, and a thai shrimp dish….all with local Pinot Noir and Syrah

Take care,

John