Captain’s Log: Attu Alaska then onto Kiska Island

June 10-12

Hi All,

Oh to be in the same side of the dateline….can’t say how many times we have asked ourselves, what time is it again??? To not have to calculate in your head the time difference say in California is so abnormal now, a very funny, weird feeling….hmmm!!!! But with the help of Iridium GO and texting Dave and Les we got it all sorted and the Mayor of Attu (that’s me) decreed the time….of course, since I took that title, Kathy stayed as Admiral and then Mark took on King….so just a lowly servant again:))))

BUT…..it was very nice indeed to have our day back….so 4 nights here in Attu versus 3 night…think on that for a bit!!

Attu is the westernmost and largest island in the Near
Islands group of the Aleutian Islands of Alaska, and the westernmost point
of land relative to Alaska, the United States, North America, and the
Americas. The island became uninhabited in 2010.

The island was the site of the only World War II land battle fought on an
incorporated territory of the United States (the Battle of Attu), and its
battlefield area is a U.S. National Historic Landmark.

In 2015, Attu Island was visited by pilot and world circumnavigator,
Michael Smith. The island was a crucial refuelling stop for Michael as he
made his way from Adak island in the Aleutian Islands to Japan. As the
island is uninhabited, he had to first fly containers of fuel there and
then return as part of the journey from Adak to Japan.
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Attu_Island#cite_note-17> He was advised
against staying overnight as there are large rats on the island.

We are happy to say we saw no rats!!!!

My first task…..go fishing, catch a fish for the crab trap and then get it set so we can have a yummy dungeness crab dinner…..such a happy time in John land/such fond memories when we were in Alaska 12 years ago of full crab traps, throw a line out and catch something…NOT….as all fisherman know….you must put in the time to get the rewards…..so after 2 days of FISHING I am skunked…..yes, my pride is severely damaged as this is not the Alaska I remember……whaaaaaaaa!!! We have been wondering if something is wrong with the water….from all the WWII battles 70 years ago….while there are some birds….lots of geese and even an Eider duck…..there are no seals/sea lions or Eagles and we don’t see much evidence of fish et al….lot’s of kelp though!!!

The scenery here is outstanding…..snow covered mountains….maybe 3000′ high….tundra, grasses, wild plants/flowers just starting to bloom but no trees. We have been very fortunate that while many clouds there have been breaks of sunshine letting us see Attu in all its glory…..awesome!!!!

On Monday Mark and I went on a 5-6nm hike to explore the WW II ruins and the now abandoned Navy base and Loran station. Kathy stayed on board as it was bitter cold….wind still blowing 20 kts and a light drizzle….but as Mark and I found out, once on land and walking it was not that cold!!

“On May 11, 1943, the American operation to recapture Attu began. A shortage
of landing craft, unsuitable beaches, and equipment that failed to operate
in the appalling weather caused great difficulties in projecting any force
against the Japanese. Many soldiers suffered from frostbite ‘” because
essential supplies could not be landed, or having been landed, could not be
moved to where they were needed. Army vehicles would not work on the
tundra. The Japanese defenders under Colonel Yasuyo Yamasaki did not
contest the landings, but rather they dug in on high ground away from the
shore. This resulted in bloody fighting: there were 3,929 U.S. casualties:
580 were killed, 1,148 were injured, 1,200 had severe cold injuries, 614
succumbed to infectious diseases, and 318 died of miscellaneous causes ‘”
largely from Japanese booby traps and from friendly fire. The Japanese were
defeated in Massacre Valley. The death count for the Japanese was 2,035.
The Americans then built “Navy Town” near Massacre Bay.”

On May 29, the last of the Japanese forces suddenly attacked near Massacre
Bay in one of the largest banzai charges of the Pacific campaign. The
charge, led by Colonel Yamasaki, penetrated U.S. lines far enough to
encounter shocked rear-echelon units of the American force. After furious,
brutal, close-quarter, and often hand-to-hand combat, the Japanese force
was killed almost to the last man: only 28 prisoners were taken, none of
them officers. U.S. burial teams counted 2,351 Japanese dead, but it was
presumed that hundreds more had been buried by naval, air, and artillery
bombardments over the course of the battle.

We had a good hike….Mark’s dad had a career in the Coast Guard and did Bering Sea duty in the late 40’s-early 50’s. His dad had been to Attu so it was cool to try and picture what it must have looked like 70 years ago. We came across this family of geese and 3-4 young ones….maybe just born a few days….one came right up to me and laid down at my boots…..hmmm….warm boots, ah, think I’ll just nap here a bit….very cute!!! For the most part we walked on well maintained gravel roads and the runway….it does seem like someone is doing some maintenance on the infrastructure….but we also had to walk on the tundra…..very soft and squesy as it seemed more like a bog!!

On Tuesday all 3 of us hiked around the old Loran station in Casco Cove and towers near where we anchored. We actually did a little beachcombing and picked up some interesting clam and abalone shells and saw several skeletons that we think were Albatross. Inside the old Loran barracks, Coast Guard classes continue to sign each year’s class…..there has already been a “class of 2018″…..they must do some sort of training exercise out here….interesting!!!

The United States government decided to construct a LORAN station on the southern tip of
Attu, at Theodore Point. This installation was manned by a crew of about
twenty members of the United States Coast Guard. The equipment to build the
station came out of Holtz Bay and was ferried on barges and landing craft
to Baxter Cove, about one mile east of the station. Bulldozers were used to
cut a road from Baxter Cove to Theodore Point. In 1954, the station was moved to Casco Cove,
near the former Navy Base at Massacre Bay. In 1960, it was moved to Massacre Bay.

The Plan: We are leaving beautiful and peaceful Attu on Wednesday, June 13 @ 8:00am to go 180nm to Kiska Island and anchor in Gertrude Cove. We will be there for 3 nights and then make a 225nm run to Adak and Sweepers Cove where we can get fuel and John can relax…..hopefully, if Mr Weather cooperates!!! Unfortunately the weather is still not cooperating for the run to Kiska…..we will have 10-15kts winds on the port beam…that’s ok….but 2-5’ headseas again…..but hopefully medium period (8 secs) so we won’t have all the boat slamming when Mystic falls off a wave…..we shall see what happens!!!

Spruce is still ahead of us and are currently at Kiska…..they report many seals and Eagles so lets hope the fishing/crabbing will be better!!!!

Hope all is well!!!

John
Mystic Moon
Attu Alaska

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