Captain’s Log: African Safari Summary

August 3 – September 7

Hi All,

Wow, wow, wow, wow, wow…yep 5 BIG Wow’s. It’s really hard to describe how this trip by far exceeded our expectations….trip of a lifetime hardly describes the pure enjoyment, enthusiasm, and exuberance we had during this trip. We never got tired or sick and were able to keep our Labrador love of life attitude throughout the journey. When we got on the plane to come home in Cape Town we both cried out “what a ride” in our best Rat Pack imitation (sans cigarette and empty martini glass:))))

This was a 2.7 year process with so many twists and turns. We started in January 2019 doing our research on African safaris, talked with several travel agents and had two give us quotes and finally selected Natural Habitat out of Boulder Colorado. The trip was supposed to start in August 2020 but Covid hit and the trip was canceled. Nat Hab gave us a choice to rollover to 2021 at about the same cost which we did with the final go/no-go decision made in March 2021.

The Trip: We went to Rwanda (mountain gorillas, Genocide Memorial), Kenya (Great Migration in Massai Mara, Nairobi National Park (stayed at Emakoko Lodge), Karen Bixen Farm (Out of Africa), Giraffe Center, (bought 2 large wood carved giraffes at Golden Eagle Art Gallery in Nairobi), Botswana (Okavango Delta) and then finished in Cape Town South Africa to tour this historic mariner town (Table Mountain and down the peninsula to Cape Point and Cape of Good Hope, Apartheid Museum, Botanical Gardens) then we finished with 3 days in the winelands, Stellenbosch and Francshhoek areas (Wineries: Meerlust, Kanonkop, La Motte, Boschendal, Mont Rochelle (hotel where we stayed as well), DeMorgenzon, Thelema, Rust en Verde, Stark Conde).. In all it was 35 days, Aug 3 to Sept 7. We visited 4 different countries…..we now have been in 91 different countries and 6 continents (Antarctica next:)))…..and stayed in 7 lodges and 6 safari camps!!!!
Critters: The traditional method to appraise/rate the success of a safari is “did you see the Big Five”. The “Big Five” is a term that is used to refer to the 5 African animals that early big game hunters, mainly white Europeans, considered most difficult and dangerous animals to hunt on foot in Africa. These animals include the African elephant, lion, leopard, Cape buffalo, and rhinoceros. Hmmmm, well….we don’t think that is at all the correct/best means to rate a safari anymore. Today, most African countries do not allow trophy hunting believing in animal conservation and tourism pays far bigger with more jobs. Some countries do allow permitted hunting to cull various herds and a few game reserves in South Africa still allow trophy hunting.

Kathy and I have our own list….the Fabulous 18…..lion, leopard, cheetah, African elephant, giraffe, zebra, wildebeest, warthog, hippopotamus, Cape buffalo, rhinoceros, Painted Dogs, and Antelopes (impala, sable, Topi, Lechwe), Thompson gazelle, and hyena!!! So yes, we did see the Big Five and of course the Fab 18:)))) As much as we enjoyed the sightings, what was equally fascinating was observing the animal behavior. We watched for hours the mysterious herd behavior of the wildebeest migration, the protective behavior of the female elephants and zebras towards their young, the alarm signals from the various antelopes and birds, young lions and cheetahs learning/failing to hunt, and the mega buffalo herds in the Vrumbura plains in Botswana (>2000+).
In all we saw ~50 mammals, ~10 reptiles, and ~140 birds, total >200 different critters…..yes, we did record on a potential list provided by Nat Hab…..whoa!!! In Botswana there were 3 avid bird watchers in the group, one a retired university professor kept a record. Out of a possible 300+ different bird species he saw ~166!!!! In all we had ~50 lion, 10 leopard and 5 cheetah sightings!! And we did get to see 3 different herd river crossings in Kenya on the Migration Safari…..what a sight!! And, we did see two different kills. One was during a wildebeest crossing a big crocodile got a wildebeest and in Botswana we followed a young lion pride (6, ~1 year old cubs with 2 older females) learning and failing to hunt until a confused wildebeest herd turned around and ran right back to them. Lucky for the lions but bad for the one wildebeest:(((

Covid-19: We’ve had a few comments by people to the effect of….are you crazy traveling now especially to Africa to how stupid or how brave et al. Some of this was out of concern for our well being and some was just pure lack of the facts/prejudice. It was astounding, surprising, and a huge relief to find Africans adamantly adhering to strict Covid protocols…masks, social distancing, sanitizing often. No political agendas, just following the science and health experts….wow, such a relief and encouraging. Each country had just come out of various lockdowns and now had strict curfews….mainly 10pm – 4am. Botswana and South Africa had various liquor restrictions from no sales at all to allowing consumption in restaurants from noon – 8pm and liquor stores closed from Fri-Sun. All safari participants and staff were vaccinated as each county had prioritized the tourism industry. As Americans, we were not chastised or criticized for our horrible Covid response/record, but instead welcomed profusely for traveling and supporting their economy. Many people had been laid off but now were returning to work thanks mainly to Americans traveling again!!

We were tested a total of 6 times, mainly for entering and leaving each country. All airlines required either a negative Covid test or proof of vaccination and required masks at all times, except for eating. Lufthansa actually enforced masks even between bites and I was once woken up when my mask had come off!!
Airplanes: We flew on 5 different airlines. United going over, Lufthansa coming back, and in Africa it was Rwandair, Kenya Air, and SA Airlink. I suppose in today’s world all did great….all on time and no lost luggage. All 3 African airlines service was outstanding, easily outclassing the bigger and complacent United and Lufthansa. United and Lufthansa service was mediocre at best with the food, poor to fair and you had to ring when you wanted a drink and out came a surly flight attendant. The African airlines acted like they genuinely cared that we were happy, well fed, and our wine glasses always full…..hmmmm!!!

Weather: We had temperatures in the low 40’s a few nights but mainly in the 50-60’s at night. Daytime ranged from low 70’s to 8 days in Botswana in the mid-nineties….yep, that got hot for sure. It did rain some in Rwanda and Cape Town, a few nightly thunderstorms in Kenya, and Botswana was all sunny. All lodges and safari camps provided a hot water bottle at night. The first night in Rwanda when I went to bed and felt this hot object I screamed like a girl….only for Kathy to come running out of the bathroom and when she saw the water bottle had such a good guffaw. I remember my mom telling me stories of putting hot embers in a pan or hot rocks in their beds at night on the old farm and how cozy they are. Well, she was absolutely right, we both have definitely bonded with this technique and will be looking for some for our personal use at Viognier and on Mystic!!!!

Photos: Ah, the curse of digital….in all, ~100GB, >10k pictures/videos. But, there are some really good ones….I just have to sort it all out:)))

The Plan: I will post this summary blog with a few pictures, then post blogs for each of the 4 countries with galleries. I have about 3+ weeks before we go back to Mystic so wish me luck!! On 10/6-22 we go back to Mystic for those 2 weeks. We hope to get a few nights at anchor and then do a proper job of winterizing her. And in early November we will travel to Dallas to see Kathy’s parents and then onto New Orleans for our 45th Tulane reunion….let the good times roll!!

Hope all is well!!

Cheers,

John

Opening ceremony at SFO early on August 4

Female Mountain Gorilla in Five Volcanoes Park, Rwanda

Very up close and personal!!

Time for a rest!!

Golden Monkey

Feeding the giraffes at the Nairobi Giraffe Center. These are rare Rothchild Giraffes

Young lions trying to hunt a herd of wildebeest

The wildebeest herd got confused and ran right back into the lions. See the takedown by the lion pride!

Hot Air balloon over the Massai Mara in Kenya

Wildebeest migration looking west towards the Serengeti in Tanzania. Everywhere you look there is a black dot. It was estimated to be 150k in this 6-8 square mile area

Sunset with cocktails in the Okavango Delta Botswana

Elephants grazing outside our Vrumbura lodge room….for over 3 hours!!!

Mega herd of Cape Buffalo in Vrumbura Plains Botswana….over, 2,000!!

View from our room of Table Mountain at Camp Grace hotel in Cape Town

Kathy and John selfie with Cape Point in the background

A selfie of John with Cape of Good Hope in the background

Panoramic view of Cape Point and Cape of Good Hope South Africa

View of Dragon Mountains from our room at Mont Rochelle in Francshhoek wine region South Africa

Tasting Pinotage (a new varietal for us) at Kanonkop winery. That’s Kathy and our guide, Nick

View of wine land South Africa