April 16-19
Hi All,
We did leave Eight Fathom Bay in Port Frederick on Tuesday April 16 around 7:15am. We were going to Funter Bay to do some fishing but the weather was iffy for the next few days and we had a decent window to Juneau so we left a day early. When we left we were unsure if we would go to Auke Bay…..12 miles north of Juneau by car or go another 30nm around Douglas Island and up Gastineau channel to a marina in downtown Juneau. We will let the weather and timing decide. And, we ended up going into Auke Bay. We arrived around 2:30pm….it would have been another 4 hours to Juneau….arriving pretty late so easy decision. It was 55nm to Auke Bay and we encountered ok conditions except for a nasty ebb tide most of the way slowing us down. We did have 15-20kt winds on the nose when we left Icy Strait and entered South Lynn Canal for about 1-2 hours….and the seas picked up to 2-3′ wind chop…Mystic did great but she did get sprayed on a lot….but, no worries, it was raining so she got a good rinse as well!!
I have to say I’m getting a bit tired of how Alaska runs its marinas. Rarely will one take a reservation and it always seems first come first serve. Here in Auke Bay they have a lot of transient berths….good news….bad news, slips are not assigned by the marina….you have to go in and then find a slip with power you want, as in wander around with your boat….we wanted 50 amp power but only about 1/3 of the spots have that….they do color code the shorepower boxes so at least you can tell. Plus, they are not really slips, just U shaped side ties so some boats can be in the center and take up like 3 boats spaces….ugh!!! And, the marina will not tell you if they have space available….just come in and look….the Harbormaster was empathetic when Kathy called early in the day but just said that is their system. Well….as it turned out, there was probably 5-10 spots available with 50 amp power and we chose the first one we saw, so good news, but challenging to sit and idle in the fairway with boats all around while Kathy secured all the lines/fenders…..and it turned out we left ourselves a 1/2 mile walk to the marina office…..hmmm, ok, so we need the exercise but sometimes it was blowing and rainy….yes, I did get a bit cranky when I saw a space available much closer to the office…..arghhhhh!!!
We rented a car the next day and set off to do some errands/chores…..first was to go up the mast, sit on the radar platform and take off the back gear box cover and retrieve the radar transceiver. It was actually an easy job except for climbing the steps up the mast…..the older I get the less I like that part!!! We then took the display and transceiver to FedEx to ship to Vince in Florida…..we hope to hear next week if our radar is repairable!!
We then went to a Fred Myers where Kathy needed a new wireless mouse, then to a sports store for some much needed fishing gear (mainly downrigger line grabbers) then it was lunch and we went to the infamous Red Dog Saloon in downtown Juneau!!
“Originating during the heyday of Juneau’s glorious mining era (1870’s), this world famous saloon has provided hospitality and fellowship to weary travelers and local patrons alike. Early day proprietors, Earl and Thelma (Pederson) Forsythe provided dancing and long time entertainer “Ragtime Hattie” played the piano in her white gloves and silver dollar halter top. During territorial days, during his tenure of over twenty years as owner, Gordie Kanouse would meet tour boats with his mule that wore a sign saying “follow my ass to the Red Dog Saloon”. In the early seventies the Harris family bought the saloon and continued to grow and protect the priceless collection of furs, guns and antiques. The Red Dog Saloon has had several different locations here in town. Originally the saloon was located about 2 blocks up Franklin street and later across the street next to the Alaskan Hotel. In 1988 the saloon was moved, intact, to this site. Great care was given to replacing most everything to its original place within the room. The Kanouse family, back in the late 40’s began luring the tourist customers from the arriving steamships. Some old timers tell us the Red Dog Saloon used to be just a tent on the beach during the mining heydays.”
Kathy and I were there in 2006 and it seemed very little has changed….except, last time we were here in June and it was wall to wall with people…..cruise ship tourists…..this time maybe 5-10 people….oh, so quiet and able see the charm and all the artifacts….impressive. We did have lunch…..halibut & chips plus a huge plate of ribs….and, in honor of David and Dana and the Jones family who were here several years ago on a Jones family cruise, we had the special Yukon drink called Duck Farts….yep…..layered Kalua, Baileys and Crown Royal in a shot glass….I shot it as is custom and Kathy cheated and mixed and sipped….yummers….tastes like a milkshake:)))
“The Alaskan Duck fart was invented in Alaska, so the saying goes. It said to have been invented by at a Peanut Farm in Alaska by Dave Schmidt in 1987. A women walked into the bar and ordered a shot of tequila, then a B52…then they started experimenting and this creation was born (a riff off the B52).”
And believe it….we then went to Costco….can’t believe we did that instead of a nap:)))) It’s a nice Costco but their claim is the smallest Costco in the world….whoa!!!!!
The next day we took a City tour with Steve from Alaska Luxury Tours…..great day, Steve was a great guide, very personable and knowledgeable. We first went to Shrine of St Terese: “Shrine of St. Therese of Lisieux overlooks the Lynn Canal. Situated on 46 acres, the site contains a stone chapel, crypt, labyrinth, columbarium, lodge, cabin, and retreat. In 1925, St. Therese was named the patroness of Alaska. In the 1930s, the Jesuit priest, Father William LeVasseur came up with the idea of a retreat center in her name. Bishop Joseph Raphael John Crimont provided support for its establishment. Thousands of stones were used to construct the chapel and other structures, which were gathered by volunteers. The first mass was held in 1941.”
They were getting ready for Good Friday Services so we left and wondered around and looked out over Lynn Canal where we will be traveling in a few days on our way to Haines and Skagway. From there we went to the Mendenhall Glacier:
“Mendenhall Glacier is about 13.6 miles, a half-mile wide, with ice up to 1,800 feet deep long located in Mendenhall Valley, about 12 miles from downtown Juneau. The Juneau Icefield Research Program has monitored the outlet glaciers of the Juneau Icefield since 1942, including Mendenhall Glacier. The glacier has also retreated 1.75 miles since 1929, when Mendenhall Lake was created, and over 2.5 miles since 1500. The end of the glacier currently has a negative glacier mass balance and will continue to retreat in the foreseeable future.”
Yep, indeed very impressive. We took the mile long hike to Nugget falls, beautiful 400′ waterfall, as well as great views of the glacier. Curious, not much ice flow….much different than the glaciers in Glacier Bay….hmmmm!!
This is getting to be a long blog so I’ll stop now, post and continue in the next blog. I was able to post some pictures…..from Sitka to Glacier Bay….some good pictures of wildlife and the beautiful scenery!!
Critter Stats: (same as last time; didn’t see much coming into Auke Bay as seas were not conducive for viewing:((((
Dungeness crab: 11 total
Prawns: 4 Spotted
Whales: 17 total; 14 Humpbacks; 3 Orcas
Salmon: 0
Bears: 1
Wolves: 5
Otters: 700+, ~50% with pups
Mountain Goats: total 27
Stellar Sea Lions: ~350
Hope all is well!
John
Mystic Moon
Auke Bay Alaska
PSS: Some pictures on the website:
https://mysticmoonvoyages.com/photo-gallery/nggallery/main-album/Salisbury-Sound-to-Glacier-Bay
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