Captain’s Log: Stewart Island to Catlins, Curio Bay and Kaka Point, Day 33-36

March 7-10

Hi All,

After the rather boisterous ferry ride from Stewart Island we said our good byes to
Adam and Cindi and got some groceries in Bluff as we had heard there were no restaurants in Curio Bay, our next destination in the Catlins (which was true) and a stop for gas. We then drove the 75 miles in a hard and windy rain…yuck….we got to Curio Bay in time to see the yellow-eyed penguins but it was storming so hard we just hunkered down in our cute cottage and watched the storm waves on the beach….then popcorn and blog writing….yep, exciting, LIG:)))

Well, @ about 5:30am we heard this call to revelry….WTH….it was blue penguins announcing their march to the beach and one of them had a juvenile under our cottage. We both got up but didn’t see anything….they are quite small plus it was still dark. After breakfast we went exploring….first, a walk along the beach on Porpoise Beach looking for Hector dolphins (one of the smallest dolphins), then Curio Bay look out for some great views, then on to the yellow-eyed penguin spot and a petrified forest…..no penguins in the morning but we will be back for the 7-9pm watch….On our walk back along the beach we indeed did see the Hector dolphins….they are quite small and maybe 200 yards out so not too good to take pics:(((

Then it was in the car to Slope Point (furthest land south on South Island, of course we were further south on Stewart Island) then to Waipapa beach and its lighthouse. Here we saw two sets of Hooker’s sea lions (now called New Zealand Sea Lions)…..really big and hefty! We thought for a while we might see some sea lion porn….a young male was trying his best with an older female but she wanted nothing to do with him!!!! We think they breed in Antarctica so this poor fella had no chance!!

This area from south of Queenstown through Invercargill and up through the Catlins to Dunedin is one huge farmland for sheep (we heard over 9 million, but google has it close to 6 million). The area is rolling hills and reminds us of the dairy farming in Pennsylvania and northern California. Just miles and miles of rolling very green pasture land with tiny white dots (sheep). Some of the fields are planted with turnips, radishes or Chou Moellier and Kale, which is good for winter grazing when the grass does not grow…..brrrr, very hardy people and sheep here!!! This area also produces a lot of beef/diary, venison, and potatoes (there you go Les!!).

After a home cooked rib-eye dinner, we filled our flasks for the 7-9pm watch for yellow-eyed penguins….It was quite chilly and people were very envious of our flasks! The penguins raise their young in Jan-Feb but we were lucky as two juveniles were still on the beach. Each day the parents go out feeding then at dusk come back and feed the young. Well, the 2 siblings came out of their nests in the bush and proceeded to slowly look for mom and dad, walking out along the rocks to the water’s edge. You could tell they were quite anxious and hungry. But, it got close to 9:00 and dark, and no parent showed. We learned this from a very quiet Ranger (she never announced herself and finally I walked up to her and asked if she was the ranger as she looked the part). Then several of us gathered as she explained the mom had come in at 4:00 for a feeding and she was hoping for a return at 9:00. The dad had not been seen for 3 days and was assumed to be moulting, which they do in March-April. So, Mom was on double duty. We all were getting a little worried that she would not show and the wee ones would go hungry…..there had been maybe 75 people watching but now down to about 10. And suddenly, there was mom on the beach…..but she would not approach the young ones….she made them walk maybe 50 yards to her….the ranger suspected she was starting to train them to leave the nest so she was getting them used to beach walking…earlier at high tide she took them for a short swim. Very fascinating, and we were so glad this had a happy ending!!

The next day we headed towards Kaka Point, near the north end of the Catlins. We stopped at the Cathedral Caves…very interesting caves carved by the sea and a nice steep walk uphill both ways:)))) From there we went to Papatowai to look at a very curious art gallery called Lost Gypsy….he had a lot of junk/gadgets that were ingeniously made and had you stumped figuring out how they worked….I mean like a couple hundred or so….my engineer brain was fried….he charged $5 and made a very good living!!!!

From there it was to the Purukaunui Falls…..well, nice but a little underwhelming. But, on our way we were stopped by the Catlin rush hour traffic…..sheep style–LA has nothing on us! A farmer was herding about 500 sheep from one pasture to another along this gravel country road using his 4×4….the dogs were in the back barking “let me out dad”….which he did once. We stopped and had a nice chat and learned a little about sheep farming while the sheep ambled their way for about 1k….they really do not walk/run very well and many were limping!!!

Then we had a scenic drive through Owaka where we were told there was an ATM machine….yes, there was but only took NZ cards…..we needed cash to pay the next B&B, so we drove on to Balclutha….do you think we are in Scotland….geez these names!!!! Cash in hand, on to Kaka Point…well, we got there a little early and the weather was holding so we decided to go on to Nugget Point. Great stop and beautiful views…..saw a cool, still working lighthouse, and from a distance a few seals and a penguin over at Roaring Beach….but the wind from Antarctica had picked up, so back to our cozy B&B. Between Heather, our lovely proprietor and the only local restaurant bartender, Paddy, our next day was mapped out…..just luv to get local knowledge….but not before Kathy did some laundry…..yep, livin the dream!!!

Tuesday was our best sea lion day yet. We went to Cannibal Beach (so named as some scientist found some human bones in the sand dunes and suggested the local Maori were….well, who knows, could have been just some dead guys!!!) We saw maybe 20 sea lions….Hooker’s/New Zealand sea lions plus a few fur seals….what a show….we saw maybe 10 come in from the sea….many of the males were very boastful and protective of the females….lot’s of barking and huffing at the other males….we kept a good distance for sure!!! Then a short hike to Surat Bay, just DDG but no critters. Then it was a short drive to McClean Falls. We had skipped this the other day but we were told it is the best falls in the Catlins, and we were not disappointed. Then a late lunch at the Whistling Frog Cafe….Kathy had maybe the best hamburger yet in NZ while I had a wood oven baked lamb meat pie….yummers!!! From there we made it to the Owaka museum where we were kicked out a half hour later for quitting time. But we learned there have been 25 major ship wrecks along the Catlins- coast and scores of smaller fishing vessels. Most of the smaller ships were due to the weather but many of the larger ships were due to negligence on the part of the crew and Captain…ugh!!!!

Stats:
Traveled: 250 miles in Catlins; 2100 miles total
Hotel: Curio Bay Boutique Cottages, very nice, great views right on the beach; Kaka Point: Pinehurst B&B, John and Heather left on a 4 day bike trek and left us in their house!!!!
Wrong Turns: holding at 4:)))
One-Way Bridges: 170+
Food: Best burger yet at Whistling Frog

Well, that’s it for the Catlins….on to Dunedin!!!

Hope all is well!!

John

PS: Pictures are in the Gallery named Catlins

PSS: Cargo still on hold in LA….arghhhhhh!!!!

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