April 23-25
Hi All,
A few interesting trivia facts:
1. We are the closest to Korea we will ever be. 95nm to South Korea coast, 375nm to Pyongyang, and 270nm to Seoul….just hope N. Korea plays nice for the next month or so!!!
2. We are done doing any westing now…..all north and east from here on out!!
3. We have left the island of Kyushu and are now on the western side of Honcho, the main island of Japan!!
4. The more we learn about the history of Japan the more we marvel at the accomplishments. The end of the Edo period was 1868 and the start of the Meiji revolution and modernization of Japan. In just 150 years this small nation has become a 1st world country with the #3 world economy…..truly impressive indeed!!!
We have actually left Hagi for Yunotsu (65nm in close to trawler conditions)…..now Thursday April 26 as I’m finishing this blog on Hagi….
We did leave Fukuoka at 0545 on Monday, April 23 as planned. It was an ok run….87nm, 11 hours, the winds were in the 5-15kt range and were not much of a bother but the seas were 4-6′ on the port bow/beam most of the way which made for a lot of motion…..Kathy even got a bit queasy which is so not like her….she eventually made a grilled cheese sandwich when the seas started to calm and that seemed to be the cure. Passage beers opened by 5:15pm….LIG!!!!
We tied up to the visitor wall in the fishing harbor and immediately started to cringe as many people drove by….we are so paranoid now that it will be the “men in black” making us move/leave….but, all were very nice, waved and drove away….one nice man even caught our lines and helped ties us off but he did not speak any English and soon left!! So it’s now been 3 of 9 ports we have not had to move!!!
Hagi: “Hagi (萩) is a former castle town off the major transport ways along the tranquil Sea of Japan coast in Yamaguchi Prefecture. It used to be the capital of the Mori Clan, one of the most powerful clans during the feudal age. Mori lords governed present Yamaguchi (then known as Choshu) for more than 250 years and played a central role in bringing about the Meiji Restoration in the second half of the 19th century. Hagi is best known for its nicely preserved former castle town and its local Hagiyaki Pottery which ranks among Japan’s finest. The town has been fortunate to have avoided major disasters since the Edo Period (1603-1867), thereby maintaining an appearance generally in accordance to town plans from centuries ago. Several beautiful old samurai and merchant residences survive and are open to public.
http://hagishi.com/panf/top_en.pdf
https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e6150.html
Weather: ODG….Tuesday it was blowing 22-35G45kts and raining hard at times….we want to go explore but neither of us want to get soaked…and the temps are dropping….mid 60’s now!! There was both a high wave and gale warning for the area….but we are safely tied to the wall and all is good!!
Fortunately there was a 2 hour break and Kathy had some energy and wanted to go explore. John-boy was a slug bug though. We did manage a 3 mile walk around town but I had no energy and it was just arduous. We were able to see a Reverberatory Furnace, a pottery shop displaying the Hagiyaki pottery, the local seafood market and the old ancient shipyard or what is left of it. It did start to rain again and the winds shifted from the North so we arrived back to Mystic a bit cold and wet…ugh!!!
“Hagiyaki Pottery (萩焼, Hagiyaki) is one of the most famous pottery types in Japan. The skills for making this craft was imported into Japan from Korea in the early 1600s. Hagiyaki flourished during the Edo Period (1603-1867) and was highly prized as tea wares for the tea ceremony. The color of Hagiyaki Pottery changes over time with use, as tea residuals enter the miniscule openings on its surface. This characteristic is highly appreciated by tea enthusiasts. Hagiyaki Pottery remains popular to this day. Many shops in town sell Hagiyaki tea wares, cup and bowls.”
Kathy made a pot roast for dinner….ODG was it great….it has been a long time that it is cool enough in the galley for Kathy to feel like cooking. Paired with a 2001 Napa Valley Roche Cabernet Sauvignon…..yummers!!!!
Wednesday: Air temp down to high 50’s….Kabola running…LIG!!! We did more exploring in spite of the gray, drizzly, cold and windy conditions. We first walked about a mile to the tourist information center which turned out to be a billboard but at the train station. From there we took a taxi to the Hagi Museum. A good museum, lot’s of Hagi history, some in English and they had a English book that they gave you that helped explain what all you were seeing. From there we walked around the “old” town which had many samurai residences and old buildings…..quite fascinating although the “village” in Izumi was probably more impressive. These samurai residences seem quite simplistic and elegant but all rather alike….curious!!
I was fascinated by the the real life person Shinsaku Takasugi: “was a samurai from the Chōshū Domain of Japan who contributed significantly to the Meiji Restoration.” There was a similar fictional character in Clavell’s Gai-Jin book.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Takasugi_Shinsaku
http://factsanddetails.com/china/cat2/sub4/item55.html
“The Tokugawa Shogunate lasted for around two and a half centuries, a period that came to be known as the ‘great peace’. The entire country was united after centuries of anarchy and fragmentation. Needless to say martial skill suffered during the ‘great peace’. Samurai seldom saw battle and spent most of their time in castle towns with ceremonial weapons, armour and functions. Bushido went from being an art that was practiced and lived, to a science that was studied and praised.
After the Battle of Sekigahara in the beginning of the seventeenth century Ieyasu Tokugawa was the only remaining general of consequence in Japan. Though the emperor was the ruler of Japan, his power was purely nominal. Ieyasu promised the emperor and his family financial backing and assumed for himself the title of ‘Shogun’ or military dictator. Thus was established the Tokugawa Shogunate.
Ieyasu Tokugawa – a brilliant strategist immediately put into place systems which ensured that his family’s position was ensured while keeping all his subjects in control through the practice of ‘keeping hostages’. Ties were established through intermarriage and business. The lords and samurai were encouraged to spend lavishly so that they would remain in debt and would become accustomed to a life of luxury, always easily intimidated by the military dictatorship whenever required.”
http://www.factbehindfiction.com/index_files/gaijin.htm
We also saw many of the Hagi Summer Oranges…..everywhere….it is a cross between an orange and a pomelo (grapefruit)….tastes a little sour….the fruit ripens in April/May, the trees bud again in May and the cycle starts again!!!
http://www.city.hagi.lg.jp/hagihaku/event/0804natumikann/english.htm
From there we went to the ruins of the Hagi Castle. Not much left but a nice walk and good information and a few pictures. Seems this castle was torn down in the 1870’s as part of the destruction of the feudal/diamyo hierarchy system during the initial stages of the Meiji period.
“Hagi Castle (萩城, Hagijō) was built in 1604 and served the next two and a half centuries as the seat of the Mori Clan, one of the most powerful clans in Japan. After the end of the feudal era in the second half of the 19th century, the castle was destroyed, and only its moats and walls survive today.”
https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e6152.html
There were many pottery shops near the castle featuring more of the Hagi-yaki pottery….some beautiful,impressive and fascinating pieces of art….but fortunately nothing spoke to us and the wallet escaped as the prices were $$$$$!!!!
And there you go….3D/3N in Hagi!!!
Hope all is well!
John
Mystic Moon
on passage to Yunotsu Shimane Japan
PS: Pictures on the website: http://mysticmoonvoyages.com/photo-gallery/nggallery/main-album/Hagi-Yamaguchi
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